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While planning your visit to the Canadian Rockies, your itinerary is no doubt full of epic hikes to gorgeous, teal-blue alpine lakes and stunning views. But what could compare to soaking away your post-hike aches and pains in the middle of nowhere, completely undisturbed by other people? Deate a day during your stay to take a drive and discover not just one, or two, but THREE gorgeous and steaming hot pools in the East Kootenays of British Columbia. This area is a mecca for hot springs and brings a steady stream of tourists that come to bathe in the developed pool maintained by Parks Canada in the town of Radium and the privately-owned Fairmont Hot Springs just a bit further check here for rates and availability. Lussier is the most well-known and popular natural hot springs in this area and for good reason.


Helena, Calif. By Christopher Flavelle. Follow our live coverage of extreme weather and climate change.

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November brought a second disaster: Mr. Sattui realized the precious crop of cabernet grapes that survived the fire had been ruined by the smoke. There would be no vintage. A freakishly dry winter led to a third calamity: By spring, the reservoir at another of Mr. Finally, in March, came a fourth blow: Mr. Neither would any other company. Sattui said. Not outwardly: On the main road running through the small town of St. Helena, tourists still stream into wineries with exquisitely appointed tasting rooms.

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But drive off the main road, and the vineyards that made this valley famous — where the mix of soil, temperature patterns and rainfall used to be just right — are now surrounded by burned-out landscapes, dwindling water supplies and increasingly nervous winemakers, bracing for things to get worse. Desperation has pushed some growers to spray sunscreen on grapes, to try to prevent roasting, while others are irrigating with treated wastewater from toilets and sinks because reservoirs are dry.

If there is any nook of American agriculture with both the means and incentive to outwit climate changeit is here. But so far, the experience of winemakers here demonstrates the limits of adapting to a warming planet. The drive requires some concentration: The Glass Fire incinerated the wooden posts that held up the guardrails, which now lie like discarded ribbons at the edge of the cliff. Inafter graduating from the University of California at Berkeley, Mr. Smith bought acres of land here. He named his winery Smith-Madrone, after the orange-red hardwoods with waxy leaves that surround the vineyards he planted.

‘i don’t like the way the reds are tasting’

For almost three decades, those vineyards — 14 acres of cabernet, seven acres each of chardonnay and riesling, plus a smattering of cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot — were untouched by wildfires. Then, insmoke from nearby fires reached his grapes for the first time. The harvest went on as usual.

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Months later, after the wine had aged but before it was bottled, Mr. At first, Mr. Smith resisted the idea anything was amiss, but eventually brought the wine to a laboratory in Sonoma County, which determined that smoke had penetrated the skin of the grapes to affect the taste. Smith said. Smoke from distant fires can waft long distances, and there is no way a grower can prevent it. The skins of white grapes, by contrast, are discarded, and with them the smoke residue. Reds must also stay on the vine longer, often into October, leaving them more exposed to fires that usually peak in early fall.

Vintners could switch from red grapes to white but that solution collides with the demands of the market. In Napa, there is a saying: cabernet is king. The damage in turned out to be a precursor of far worse to come. Haze from the Glass Fire filled the valley; so many wine growers sought to test their grapes for smoke taint that the turnaround time at the nearest laboratory, once three days, became two months. The losses have been stunning.

Among the casualties were Mr. Smith, whose entire crop was affected.

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Now, the most visible legacy of the fire is the trees: The flames scorched not just the madrones that gave Mr. One afternoon in June, Mr. After navigating steep switchbacks, Mr. Whitlatch reached a row of vines growing petite sirah grapes that were coated with a thin layer of white. The week before, temperatures had topped degrees and staff sprayed the vines with sunscreen.

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He pointed to a bunch of grapes at the very top of the peak exposed to sun during the hottest hours of the day. Some of the fruit had turned black and shrunken — becoming, effectively, absurdly high-cost raisins. Whitlatch said. As the days get hotter and the sun more dangerous in Napa, wine growers are trying to adjust. A more expensive option than sunscreen is to cover the vines with shade cloth, Mr. At 43, Mr. Whitlatch is a veteran of the wine fires.

Inhe was an assistant winemaker at Mayacamas Vineyards, another Napa winery, when it was burned by a series of wildfires. Hannigan said. A month later, Philadelphia Insurance Companies sent the couple another letter, canceling their insurance anyway. Heminway and Mr. Hannigan have been unable to find coverage from any other carrier.

Scorched, parched and now uninsurable: climate change hits wine country

The California legislature is considering a bill that would allow wineries to get insurance through a state-run high-risk pool. But even if that passes, Mr. Chappellet stood amid the bustle of wine being bottled and trucks unloading. Chappellet Winery is the picture of commercial-scale efficiency, producing some 70, cases of wine a year. After the Glass Fire, Mr.

Chappellet is one of the lucky ones — he still has insurance.

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It just costs five times as much as it did last year. At the same time, his insurers cut by half the amount of coverage they were willing to provide. Chappellet said. There are other problems. He estimated it would reduce his crop this year by a third. To demonstrate why, he drove up a dirt road, stopping at what used to be the pair of reservoirs that fed his vineyards.

The first was one-third-full; the other, just above it, had become a barren pit. A pipe that once pumped out water instead lay on the dusty lake bed. Sattui Winery, crafted a backup plan. Davies found Joe Brown. Eight times a day, Mr.

The problem is transportation: Each load costs Mr. As the drought worsens, the city may decide its residents need it more. Davies said.

Sunscreen for grapes

After driving past the empty reservoir, Mr. Davies stopped at a hilltop overlooking the vineyard. If Napa can go another year or two without major wildfires, Mr. Davies thinks insurers will return. Harder to solve are the smoke taint and water shortages. Davies said, looking out across the valley.

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